Beginners guide to crochet

In this guide I will explain what you need to get started to learn crochet. There are lots of helpful videos on Youtube if you are unsure (this is how I learned) It takes a lot of practice and determination to get started.

Materials

Hooks

I started with a set like this, they are cheap, there are plenty of sizes to get started with and the included stitch markers are very useful. I now mostly use clover amour which is a bit more costly but worth it.

This is only a guide as a pattern will tell you what yarn and hook size will be required.

2-3 mm for 4ply / weight 2 yarn

4-5 mm for dk / weight 3 yarn

5-6 mm for aran / weight 4 yarn

6-8 mm for chunky / weight 5 yarn


8-9 mm for super chunky / weight 6 yarn

Yarn

It's probably best to start with cheap but soft acrylic yarn. You don’t want to invest in expensive yarn until you know this is a craft you will continue. I recommend a lighter colour yarn as it will be easier to see the stitches.


The label on the yarn provides info:

How many metres / grams per ball (Yardage)

Fibre content

Yarn weight 

Care instructions (which is useful for washing your finished piece)

Dye lot (incase you need to buy more to finish your project)

Most patterns will tell you how many metres of yarn and what thickness yarn is needed to complete the pattern. Eg: (4ply / weight 2) (DK / weight 3) (Aran / weight 4) (chunky / weight 5)

Scissors

Stitch markers

Yarn needle (for sewing in ends)


Holding the hook 

The first step is to learn how to hold the yarn and the crochet hook in a way that feels comfortable for you. Most people hold the hook in their dominant hand and the yarn in their non-dominant hand. 

Most people hold the crochet hook in one of two ways: the pencil method or the knife method. Find a way that feels comfortable for you.

Pencil Grip: Hold the crochet hook like a pencil between your thumb and index finger. Use your third finger underneath for more balance and control.

Knife Grip: Place your hand over the hook, palm facing down. Hold the hook between your thumb and index finger. Wrap your other three fingers around the shaft of the crochet hook for greater control.

Holding yarn

The tension determines how loose or tight your stitches will be.

The hand that holds the yarn is responsible for controlling the tension of the yarn as it is fed to the hook. It's best to find a way that allows you to crochet smoothly and comfortably.

To hold the yarn, loop the yarn through the fingers of your non-dominant hand. 

You need to create tension on the working yarn, so it can be worked freely, it can be then fed to your hook. It may be best to watch a few videos to find a comfortable way for yourself.

Slip knot

A slip knot is the first step in most crochet projects. 

Pull a length of yarn from the ball. Start the loop approximately 6 inches from the end of the yarn, leaving a tail to weave in later.  

Place the ball end of the yarn in a clockwise circle, laying it over the top of the tail end.

Insert the crochet hook into the centre of the loop, from front to back. Use the hook to grab the ball-end yarn, and pull it through the centre of the loop.  

Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the loop around the hook.

How to Yarn Over

The “yarn over'', abbreviated YO, is a foundational crochet technique that you’ll use to make all of the basic crochet stitches. You will use yarn-overs to make a starting chain, and most other crochet stitches.

Yarning over means wrapping the yarn over your crochet hook and it is the most basic step when making a stitch in crochet.

You may see it written as yarn over (abbreviated yo) or yarn over the hook (abbreviated yoh).  They mean exactly the same thing.

Yarn overs are used before or after you insert the hook into the next stitch, and depending on the stitch you are working, you may yarn over two or more times.

Yarning over is a very simple technique, but you have to do it correctly or you won’t be able to pull the yarn smoothly through the stitch.

Using your yarn hand (non-dominant hand), hold the tail of the slip knot between your thumb and forefinger.

Place the hook under the working yarn, bring the yarn up behind the hook and pull through the slip knot (1 chain made) repeat this until you have made the required chains for your pattern.

It is best to use a hook size bigger for the starting chain on your first few projects until you master the tension.

There are two main ways to make a crochet project: work flat in rows, or work in the round.

Reading a pattern

There is a difference in written instructions for the US and UK, I use US as that is how I learnt and find it makes more sense. 


Counting stitches and rows

Counting stitches is essential to keep your stitch count right, and the edge straight, rounds even. Make this part of your practice from the beginning. Use stitch markers on the first and last stitch of each row and at regular intervals if necessary. This will help you keep track of the rows and stitches.


A lot of patterns that are worked in rows use the following chains to start the next row: 

Single crochet: ch1 (often the ch1 counts as the first sc)

Half-double crochet: ch2 (often the ch2 counts as the first hdc)

Double crochet: ch3 (often the ch3 counts as the first dc)

Triple crochet: ch4 (often the ch4 counts as the first tr)

I prefer to just ch1 at the start of each row and do my usual stitch in the first stitch as I think the edge looks neater.

Basic stitches

US terms with (UK)

These are the most simple stitches used in crochet

ch = chain

sc = single crochet (double crochet UK) insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops.

hdc = half double crochet (half treble UK) yarn over insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through three loops.

dc = double crochet (treble UK) yarn over insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over pull through two loops.

tr = treble crochet (double treble UK) yarn over twice, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops.

slst = slip stitch (insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through stitch, then pull through stitch on hook


Rows are worked across and turned, to start the next row.

Practise these 3 stitches


Single crochet

Ch11

Row 1: sc, in the second chain from the hook, sc 9. (9) Turn

Row 2: ch1, sc 9. (9) Turn

Repeat row 2


Half double crochet

Ch12

Row 1: hdc in the third chain from the hook, hdc 9. (9) Turn

Row 2: ch1, hdc 9. (9) Turn

Repeat row 2 


Double crochet

ch13

Row 1: dc in the fourth chain from the hook, dc 9. (9) Turn

Row 2: ch1, dc 9. (9) Turn

Repeat row 2

Abbreviations and terms


Back Loop/Front Loop Only (BLO/FLO): usually the stitches are worked under both loops at the top of a stitch. But sometimes, a pattern will tell you to work into the back loop only (BLO) or the front loop only (FLO) to create a ribbed texture. Usually, you’ll see BLO or FLO combined with a stitch like SC, to create the abbreviation SC-BLO, or “single crochet in the back loops only.”


Fasten off: cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch yarn tail. Use the hook to draw the yarn tail through the loop on your hook. Remove the crochet hook from the work, and pull on the yarn tail to tighten it.  


Weave in the ends: use a yarn needle to weave the yarn tail through the crochet stitches (back and forth)


Bobble (bs): the bobble stitch creates a raised 3D effect. It’s typically made by partially completing several double crochets into the same stitch and then joining them together. The number of stitches in a bobble can vary from pattern to pattern, so check the pattern notes.

Cluster (Cl): there are many different types of cluster stitches, and your pattern should specify the type being used. For example, a 3-dc cluster would be a cluster of three double crochet stitches. 

Double Treble Crochet (dtr): this is one of the taller crochet stitches, slightly taller than the standard treble crochet.

Magic Ring/Circle (MR/MC): is a technique used to start crocheting in the round, resulting in a tightly closed centre. This technique is especially useful for projects like granny squares, amigurumi or top-down hats. If you struggle with this, then you can make a few chains, slst together to form a circle and crochet into the circle.

Popcorn (pc): the popcorn stitch is a crochet technique that creates a puffy, 3D texture. It’s usually made by working multiple double crochets into the same stitch and then joining them at the top. The number of stitches in a popcorn can vary from pattern to pattern, so check the pattern notes.

Puff stitch (ps): the puff stitch is a decorative stitch that creates a puffy texture on the fabric. It’s similar to the popcorn and bobble stitches.

Triple Treble Crochet (Trtr): this is one of the tallest crochet stitches, even taller than the double treble crochet.

Front/Back Post (Fp/Bp): front post and back post stitches are made around the post of the stitch from the previous row, rather than under the top two loops of the stitch. These stitches create a textured, raised pattern on the fabric. Usually, you’ll see FP or BP combined with a stitch like SC or DC, to create the abbreviation Fpdc (Front post double crochet) Bpdc (Back post double crochet) 

Alternate (alt): is a term used when you need to do different stitches or sequences in a repeating pattern.

Approximate (approx): is often used to give a rough estimate of the size or quantity of something. For example, a pattern might say, “approx 300 metres of yarn needed.”

Beginning (beg): usually refers to the start of a row or round. A pattern might tell you to join a round “at the beg,” meaning where you first started that round.

Between (bet): is usually used to specify that a stitch should be made between two stitches from the previous row or round, rather than into a stitch.

Continue (cont): is a term used in patterns to tell you to keep going with the pattern or sequence that’s been established.

Main Colour (MC): the main colour is the primary colour used in the project. This is the colour you’ll typically use the most.

Contrasting Colour (CC): if a pattern uses multiple colours, it will specify the “main colour” (MC) and the “contrasting colour” (CC). The MC is the primary colour in the project, while the CC is a secondary colour.

Decreasing (dec) (sc2tog) (hdc2tog) (dc2tog): decreasing is the method of reducing the number of stitches in your work. This is usually done by working two or more stitches together. 

Increasing (inc): is adding stitches to your work. This is usually done by working more stitches into a single stitch from the previous row.

Fasten Off: is the term used when you’ve completed your project, or you’re changing colours. To fasten off, you’ll cut your yarn, leaving a tail, and pull the tail through the last loop on your hook to secure it.

Join: a term used in crochet patterns to indicate that you need to connect two parts of your work, usually the end of a round to its beginning. This is usually done using a slip stitch. 

Loop (lp): this is the loop of yarn on your hook at any given time. It could be the starting loop, the loop left after completing a stitch, or the loop you’ve just pulled up in the current stitch.

Place Marker (pm): stitch markers are used to mark a certain stitch to reference later. You can use a locking stitch marker, a piece of different colour yarn, or even a safety pin to mark the stitch. 

Repeat (rep): it’s used in patterns to indicate that a set of instructions should be repeated a certain number of times.

Right Side (RS): the side of the project that is meant to be visible or facing out when the project is used or worn. Depending on the pattern, the right side may have a different texture or appearance compared to the wrong side.

Wrong Side (WS): is the side that is at the back of the work and will not be visible when the project is used or worn. Depending on the pattern, the wrong side may have a different texture or appearance compared to the right side.

Round (rnd): a round is a sequence of stitches that are worked circular. Working in the round allows you to create crocheted items that start with a circle, they are either worked in a spiral and continuous (amigurumi) or in joined rounds (often hats and granny squares) most of which use a magic circle instead of a foundation chain.

Row: a row in crochet is a horizontal sequence of stitches. When you reach the end of a row, you’ll often “turn” your work to start the next one. Most patterns number each Row to help you keep track of your progress.

Skip (sk): to miss one or more stitches in the row below. This is often used to create spaces in a pattern or to decrease the number of stitches. When a pattern tells you to skip, you simply move to the next stitch as indicated without working into the skipped stitch.

Space (sp): the term “space” or “sp” in a pattern refers to the gap or hole created by a chain stitch in the previous row or round. Instead of inserting your hook into a stitch, you’ll insert it into this space.

Stitch/es (st/s): in a pattern, you’ll often see instructions telling you to work a certain number of stitches. You’ll also see it used at the end of the row or round to indicate the correct stitch count.

Turn: is an instruction you’ll often see at the end of a row in a crochet pattern. It simply means to flip your work around so you can start the next row. 

Yarn Over (yo): is the act of wrapping the yarn from back to front over your crochet hook. This is a fundamental part of creating stitches. You might also see this action called “yarn over hook” or “yoh.”

Blocking: is a finishing technique that involves wetting or steaming your finished crochet piece and then shaping it to the correct dimensions as it dries. This can help even out stitches, straighten edges, and help your project achieve its final shape. It’s especially helpful for granny squares or garments where fit and shape are essential.

Darning / Weaving: You will usually have at least two loose ends of yarn on a project, one from where you started and one from where you finished. You might also have additional ends if you’ve changed colours or added new balls of yarn during your project. Use a darning needle, often called a yarn needle (a large blunt-ended needle) to sew the loose ends back into your stitches to hide them and secure your work. This is an important step to give your project a neat, professional finish.

Finished Object (Fo): this term is a common abbreviation used among crafters when talking about their work online.

Frogging: is a term used in the crochet world to describe the process of ripping out stitches when you’ve made a mistake (“rip it, rip it,” like a frog’s sound).

Gauge: is the number of stitches and rows per inch in a crochet or knitting project. It’s important to match the pattern’s gauge to ensure your project turns out the correct size.

Hook Size: crochet hooks come in various sizes to match the weight of the yarn you’re using. They can be labelled in metric (mm), US, or UK sizes, and it’s essential to use the size recommended in your pattern to achieve the correct gauge.

Tension: Tension refers to how tightly or loosely you hold the yarn while you’re crocheting. Everyone’s tension is a little different, and it can change depending on the type of yarn you’re using. Consistent tension is important for creating even stitches and meeting the pattern’s gauge.

Unfinished Object (UFO): is a project that you’ve started but haven’t completed. It’s common to have a few UFOs lying around as you go from one project to another.

WIP (Work In Progress): a term used in online crochet communities to refer to the projects you’re currently working on. It’s not uncommon to have multiple WIPs at once!

Yarn Weight: refers to the thickness of the yarn strand. From lace (super thin) to jumbo (super thick), the weight of the yarn can dramatically impact the look and feel of your project.

C2C (Corner to corner): is a crochet technique of crocheting diagonally, from one corner to the other. It can be good for pixel images (more advanced) . It's also a great way to get diagonal stripes instead of horizontal or circular.

Understanding symbols:

Using abbreviations and symbols instead of full terms allows patterns to be more concise and easier to follow once you know the language. 

Symbols like [ ], ( ), or * * are used to indicate stitch instructions and repeats. 

( ) or [ ] are used in two ways. The first way is to define a group of stitches that will all be worked in the same stitch or space. For example, a pattern might say:

[dc, ch2, dc] in the next ch2 space

That means you’ll make a double crochet, two chains, and another double crochet, all in the same space.

Brackets

[ ] can be used to indicate repeats. For example, a pattern might say:

[3 dc, ch2] x 3

This means you should repeat the set of three double crochets and two chains for a total of 3 times.

The second way is to indicate a set of stitches that you’ll need to repeat a specified number of times. The number following the instruction for repeats tells you how many times to repeat the specified set of stitches. For example:

*sc, hdc* x 4

This means you’ll make a set of a single crochet and a half double crochet four times.

It should tell you on the pattern you are using what these symbols mean.

Asterisks

Asterisks * * can also be used to indicate repeats. For example, a pattern might say:

*2 dc in the next, ch1* x 4.

This means to make two double crochets into the next space, then chain 1. Repeat that group of instructions four times.


Gauge (Tension UK)

Most wearable patterns will have a gauge square, you will need to complete this first before you start the pattern. This is to make sure that the garment will turn out the correct size. 

If it says using a 4mm crochet hook, try that first, if the square comes out small try a 4.5mm or 5mm hook, or large try a 3.5mm or 3mm hook until you get the gauge correct. 

It all depends on how tight or loose you crochet. I crochet loose so I always use a 3mm hook for patterns stating a 4mm hook and my sizing always turns out right.