Cosy Hexi Jumper
This jumper is made with two hexagons in the granny spike stitch. It comes in sizes from baby to adult. This pattern is designed to be made to measure so any weight yarn and hook can be used.
Materials
Dk / weight 3 yarn or any weight yarn of your choosing as it is made to measure.
I used Vintage Cotton purchased here in shades Purple, Lime green, Bright pink, Dark Turquoise, Coral, Lilac, Blue and Creamy Yellow (200 metres per 100g). I used less than 1 ball of each colour for size XL. I also used approx 850 metres of WI Premium acrylic from hobbycraft in black.
I used a 4.5mm hook for the main jumper and a 3.5mm hook for the rib edging
Written in English US terms with abbreviations for UK
sc = single crochet (double crochet in UK)
dc = double crochet (treble crochet UK)
tr = treble crochet (double treble crochet UK)
sdc = spike double crochet (double crochet in the centre of cluster two rows below (treble crochet in the centre of cluster two rows below UK)
ssc = spike single crochet (single crochet in the centre of cluster two rows below (double crochet in the centre of cluster two rows below)
cluster = (3 dc stitches) (3 treble crochet stitches UK)
slst = slip stitch
blo = back loop only (crochet into the back loop of the stitch
[ ] = in the same stitch
* * = repeat between
ch = chain
Gauge
For using dk / weight 3 yarn
With a 4.5mm hook
9 dc x 4 rows = 2”
3 clusters x 4 rows = 2”x 2”
Pattern notes
The jumper is worked in the granny spike stitch, which is like granny stitch apart from the middle dc is worked in the middle stitch, two rows below to make a spike in the middle, this also gives it a less holey finish. It is important when doing the spike stitch to pull the stitch up as high as the previous stitch or your work will start going pointed. If you struggle with this do a treble crochet instead (double treble UK).
This jumper can be made in any weight yarn and hook, as it is made to measure.
I have provided details for dk yarn and the hook size that I used.
The ch1 corner does not count as a stitch.
The ch3 counts as a dc.
Follow the hexagon until you reach the size you are making then continue to seaming sleeves, adding rows to the back and rib edging.
Follow the size chart to add extra rows to the back, bottom and sleeves, or add as many as you need for your size.
The hexagon will not lie flat, it will be wavy, this is how it should be, so that it can be folded in half to form half of a cardigan.
Slst to the ch1 corner space to start the next round, if using the same colour. Or if changing colour join in any ch1 space.
Each round of the hexagon is started with a ch3 (counted as a dc) and each row of the rib edging is started with a ch1 (not counted as a stitch)
I made the edging using a 3.5mm hook.
My example pictures are for size XL. I made my hexagon to 8” then seamed the sleeves.
To get the spike effect do two rows of each colour.
If you find it helpful watching a tutorial I made a video for the cardigan here Cosy Hexi Cardi Crochet Tutorial
Hexagon (make two)
Using a 4.5mm hook
Round 1: In a magic circle, ch3, 2 dc, ch1, *3 dc, ch1* x 5, slst to first stitch, slst to the ch1 corner. (18)
Round 2: [ch3, 2 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the same stitch for the first corner, *[3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in each ch1 space, slst to the first stitch, then slst to the ch1 corner space to start the next round. (36)
Round 3: [ch3, 2 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the same stitch for the first corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between the cluster below, *[3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the ch2 corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between the cluster below* repeat to end, slst to first stitch, then slst to the ch1 corner space to start the next round. (54)
Round 4: [ch3, 2 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the same stitch for the first corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between the next 2 clusters, *[3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the ch1 corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between the next 2 clusters* repeat to end, slst to first stitch, then slst to the ch1 corner space to start the next round. (72)
Repeat round 4 until work measures what is stated in the size chart above.
(each side of the hexagon will go up 1 cluster for each round. (6 clusters / 18 stitches per round)
(each round for my hexagon was 0.5”, 1” for two rounds)
Seaming the sleeves
Before seaming the sleeves, we will add the following so it closes the gaps.
Side 1: sc in the corner space, sc 2, *ssc in the centre of cluster 2 rows below, sc 2* repeat to the corner, sc in the corner space.
Skip side 2
Side 3: sc in the corner space, sc 2, *ssc in the centre of cluster 2 rows below, sc 2* repeat to the corner, sc in the corner space.
Loosely slst side 1 and 3 together using the inner loops. Or you can use a bigger hook to do this.
Mark out with stitch markers the back ch1 space on each hexagon (see photos below)
On the front skip the ch1 space, skip the next 2 cluster spaces and place a stitch marker.
Left side
Start at the top front stitch marker
Row 1: Ch3, sdc, dc] between first cluster, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster down the front, [3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the bottom corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster across the bottom, [3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster up the back [3 dc] in the ch1 with stitch marker. Turn
Row 2: ch3, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster, [3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster, [3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster, ending with a dc at the end of last cluster. Turn
Row 3: Ch3, sdc, dc] between first cluster, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster down the front, [3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the bottom corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster across the bottom, [3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster up the back, making the last [dc, sdc, dc] between the cluster and ch3. Turn
Repeat row 2 and 3 to get the required measurement for the back/front infill (I needed 4” for the XL size, but I ended up doing more to get my last colour in and have a looser fit)
Right side
Start at the top back stitch marker
Row 1: Ch3, sdc, dc] between first cluster, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster down the back, [3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the bottom corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster across the bottom, [3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster up the front [3 dc] in the stitch with stitch marker. Turn
Row 2: ch3, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster, [3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster, [3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster, ending with a dc at the end of last cluster. Turn
Row 3: Ch3, sdc, dc] between first cluster, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster down the back, [3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the bottom corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster across the bottom, [3 dc, ch1, 3 dc] in the corner, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster up the front, making the last [dc, sdc, dc] between the cluster and ch3. Turn
Repeat row 2 and 3 to get the required measurement for the back/front infill (I needed 4” for the XL size)
Joining the back
Join yarn at the top back
Down the back, then up the other side, then slst
Ch1, *sc 2, ssc*, repeat on top of each cluster, 2 sc in the side of each dc row, [sc, ch2, sc] in the bottom corner, *sc 2, ssc* on top of each cluster across the bottom, sc 1, [sc, ch2, sc] in the last, 2 sc in the side of each dc row, *sc 2, ssc* repeat to the top, working sc along the shoulder / back, then slst to the first.
Repeat for the right side edging, starting at the top back. Then slst the back together using the inner loops, the same as the sleeves. Or sew if preferred.
Adding Length to the body
Join yarn in the back centre ch1 space
Row 1: [ch3, 2 dc] in the ch1 space, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster, [3 dc] in the ch1 space at the other side. Turn
Row 2: [ch3, sdc, dc] between the dc and cluster, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster. Turn
Repeat rows 2 until you reach the length you want. (The edging will be 1.5”)
Bottom Edging
join yarn to the centre back.
Row 1: ch13 (or chain required stitches to get to 1.5”), sc in second ch from hook, sc 11, slst 2 stitches of the bottom edge. (12) Turn
Row 2: (in blo) ch1, sc all. (12) Turn
Row 3: (in blo) ch1, sc 12, slst 2 stitches of the bottom edge. (12) Turn
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you reach the other side and sew the seam.
Collar
Join yarn at the centre back of the neck
Row 1: Sc around the the neck, doing the sc spike to close any gaps
Row 2: ch10, sc in second ch from hook, sc 8, slst 2 stitches of the neck. (9) Turn
Row 3: (in blo) ch1, sc all. (9) Turn
Row 4: (in blo) ch1, sc all, slst 2 stitches of the neck. (9) Turn
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you reach the other side and sew the seam.
Sleeves
Add length to the sleeves
Round 1: [ch3, sdc, dc] between first cluster, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster, at the seam dc in the corner, dc in centre, dc in the corner, slst to first.
If changing colour join yarn between any cluster, if not changing colour slst to between next cluster to start the next round
Round 2: [ch3, sdc, dc] between first cluster, [dc, sdc, dc] between each cluster, slst to first.
Repeat round 2 until sleeves measure required length in the size chart or your required length.
Cuffs
I used a size smaller hook for the cuffs
Starting in the centre of the next cluster, the next row will close the gaps.
Row 1: ch1, sc in the same, ssc in the centre of cluster 2 rows below, *sc 1, ssc in the centre of cluster 2 rows below* repeat to end, slst to first.
Row 2: ch16, sc in second ch from hook, sc 14, slst 2 stitches of the sleeve. (15) Turn
(If you want to decrease the sleeves more, slst 3 stitches instead of 2)
Row 3: (in blo) ch1, sc all. (15) Turn
Row 4: (in blo) ch1, sc 6, slst 2 stitches of the sleeve. (15) Turn
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you reach the other side and sew the seam.
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