Ladies Pick and Mix Cardigan
This cute and quirky cardigan is made with four granny squares at the front and four at the back. Then joining and adding sleeves. The pattern has a choice of lots of different mods available on my website. Or any granny square can be used as long as you can get it to the right size in the chart.
The mods are available here:
Spooky, Christmas, Farmyard, Woodland, Jungle, Spring and Summer *The spring and summer are made differently to the below squares and would need altering to get to the right size square, but I have added how to do this*
Materials
Dk / weight 3 yarn. For my example I made the size small. I used a variety of oddments for the squares, for the edging I used a full ball of WI in dark pink and the sleeve a full ball of paintbox shade fondant.
3.5mm and 4mm crochet hooks
Written in English US terms with abbreviations for UK
sc = single crochet (double crochet in UK)
hdc = half double crochet (half treble crochet UK)
dc = double crochet (treble crochet UK)
slst = slip stitch
blo = back loop only (crochet into the back loop of the stitch
[ ] = in the same stitch
* * = repeat between
ch = chain
fpdc = front post double crochet (front post treble crochet UK)
dc2tog = dc two stitches together
Gauge
With 4mm hook
9 dc x 4 rows = 2”
Pattern notes
This pattern starts with making 15 granny squares to the size in the chart, 6 for the front (3 each side) and 9 for the back. Then they will be crocheted together so there is no sewing.
The ch1 and ch2 do not count as a stitch.
The ch2 counts as a hdc in the corners of the square only and the ch3 counts as a dc.
Follow the square for the size you are making (see the size chart)
Each square size tells you what size mods to make.
Square size 6.5 and 7.5”
If making animals make the large mods (each of the mods tells you what colour to make the circle part) , if making spring summer make the extra large and for 7.5” add one more round of dc to the square to get 7.5”.
Round 1: make a magic circle then ch2 and 9 hdc, slst to the first stitch. (9)
Round 2: [ch2, 2 hdc] in the same stitch, [2 hdc] in each stitch to end, slst to the first stitch. (18)
Round 3: ch2, 1 hdc in the same stitch, [2 hdc] in the next, *hdc 1, [2 hdc] in the next* repeat to the end, slst to the first stitch. (27)
Round 4: ch2, 1 hdc in the same stitch, hdc 1, [2 hdc] in the next, *hdc 2, [2 hdc] in the next* repeat to the end, slst to the first stitch. (36)
Round 5: ch2, 1 hdc in the same stitch, hdc 3, *hdc 3, [2 hdc] in the next* repeat to the end, slst to the first stitch. (44)
Change to main colour
Round 6: ch3, dc in the same, ch1, [2 dc] in the next stitch, hdc 1, sc 7, hdc 1, *[2 dc] in the next, ch1, [2 dc] in the next, hdc 1, sc 7, hdc 1* repeat twice more, slst to the first stitch, then slst to the ch1 corner space to start the next round. (52)
Round 7: [ch3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the ch1 space for the first corner, dc 13, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc], dc 13* repeat twice more, slst to the first stitch, then slst to the ch2 corner space to start the next round. (68)
Round 8: [ch3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the ch2 space for the first corner, dc 17, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc], dc 17* repeat twice more, slst to the first stitch, then slst to the ch2 corner space to start the next round. (84)
Round 9: [ch3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the ch2 space for the first corner, dc 21, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc], dc 21* repeat twice more, slst to the first stitch, then slst to the ch2 corner space to start the next round. (100)
(square should measure approx 6.5”)
Round 10: [ch3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the ch2 space for the first corner, dc 25, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc], dc 25* repeat twice more, slst to the first stitch, then slst to the ch2 corner space to start the next round. (116)
(square should measure approx 7.5”)
Square size 8.5 and 9.5”
If making animals make the extra large mods (each of the mods tells you what colour to make the circle part) , if making spring summer make the extra large for 8.5” add two more rounds of dc to the square to get 8.5” and 9.5 add three more rounds of dc.
Round 1: make a magic circle then ch2 and 9 hdc, slst to the first stitch and pull tight. (9)
Round 2: [ch2, 2 hdc] in the same stitch, [2 hdc] in each stitch to end, slst to the first stitch. (18)
Round 3: ch2, 1 hdc in the same stitch, [2 hdc] in the next, *hdc 1, [2 hdc] in the next* repeat to the end, slst to the first stitch. (27)
Round 4: ch2, 1 hdc in the same stitch, hdc 1, [2 hdc] in the next, *hdc 2, [2 hdc] in the next* repeat to the end, slst to the first stitch. (36)
Round 5: ch2, 2 hdc in the same stitch, hdc 2, [2 hdc] in the next, *hdc 3, [2 hdc] in the next* repeat to the end, slst to the first stitch. (46)
Round 6: ch2, 2 hdc in the same stitch, hdc 3, [2 hdc] in the next, *hdc 4, [2 hdc] in the next* repeat to the end, slst to the first stitch. (56)
Change to main colour
Round 7: [ch3, 1 dc, 1 tr] in the same, ch 1, [1 tr, 2 dc] in the next stitch, hdc 2, sc 8, hdc 2, *[2 dc, 1 tr] in the next, ch1, [1 tr, 2 dc] in the next, hdc 2, sc 8, hdc 2* repeat twice more, slst to the first stitch, then slst to the ch1 corner space to start the next round. (72)
Round 8: [ch3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the same stitch for the first corner, dc 18, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc], dc 18* repeat twice more, slst to the first stitch, then slst to the ch2 corner space to start the next round. (88)
Round 9: [ch3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the same stitch for the first corner, dc 22, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc], dc 22* repeat twice more, slst to the first stitch, then slst to the ch2 corner space to start the next round. (104)
Round 10: [ch3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the same stitch for the first corner, dc 26, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc], dc 26* repeat twice more, slst to the first stitch, then slst to the ch2 corner space to start the next round. (120)
Round 11: [ch3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the same stitch for the first corner, dc 30, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc], dc 30* repeat twice more, slst to the first stitch, then slst to the ch2 corner space to start the next round. (136)
(square should measure approx 8.5”)
Round 12: [ch3, 1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the same stitch for the first corner, dc 34, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc], dc 34* repeat twice more, slst to the first stitch, then slst to the ch2 corner space to start the next round. (152)
(square should measure approx 9.5”)
Joining the squares
The join can be made using a slst or a sc slst or if you prefer they can be sewn.
Slip stitch join (in back loops)
For the back join 9 squares 3 x 3. Then join 3 squares the opposite way round for each side of the front
Place two squares together (one above the other), join yarn to the back loop bottom corner of the top square, insert hook in the back loop of the bottom square, pull up a loop, pull through a loop, *insert hook into the back loop of top square, then in the back loop of bottom square, pull up a loop, pull through two loops* repeat across. Video
Single crochet slip stitch join
Join four squares together in a vertical strip, two the right way up and two upside down x 2
This zipper method which can be done in the same colour for an almost invisible join or in a contrasting colour for a zip like effect. Video
Place two squares together (one above the other), join yarn to the left top corner space of the right square, ch1, sc in the same, *remove hook, insert hook into the corner space of the second square, and pull yarn through, sc the next stitch of the first square* repeat until you reach the end, then start with the next two squares. Then follow the same method to join in the middle. Fasten off, sew the ends.
Joining the sides
Measure the required armhole depth for your size (see chart)
Place markers, then join the sides in the same way you joined the rest of the squares, leaving from the top to markers for the armholes.
Bottom length
Before adding the bottom edging, check the length of the cardigan (the edging will be 1.5”) If you want the cardigan longer, then you can make a few rows of dc along the bottom, join yarn in the ch2 corner at one side and dc across to the ch2 corner at the other side.
Bottom edging option 1
If you want the edging less than 1.5” chain less stitches to begin, or more, chain more.
Using a 3.5mm hook
With work upside down, join yarn at the bottom right
Row 1: ch9, sc in second ch from hook, sc 7, slst 2 stitches of the bottom edge. (8) Turn
Row 2: (in blo) ch1, sc all. (8) Turn
Row 3: (in blo) ch1, sc 8, slst 2 stitches of the bottom edge. (8) Turn
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you reach the other side, then continue to the button band.
Bottom edging option 2
Using a 4mm hook
(working your way across the bottom).
Row 1: ch1, dc all. Turn (When working along the side of the back infill, 2 dc along each row)
Row 2-4: ch1, *fpdc, bpdc*, repeat to end. Turn
Continue to the button band.
Button band option 1
This option is sc in the back loops
Using a 3.5mm hook
(working your way up around the collar and back down to the other side).
Row 1: (in blo) ch1, sc all. Turn When working along the side of the back infill, 2 sc across each row
Row 2: (in blo) ch1, sc all. Turn
If you want to add buttons to the cardigan, mark out where you want the buttonholes and on row 3 when you reach the markers ch1, skip 1 (for bigger buttonholes, ch2, skip 2).
The buttonholes can be made at either side.
Row 3: (in blo) ch1, sc all. Turn On the next row sc in the ch1s
Row 4-5: (in blo) ch1, sc all. Turn
Fasten off.
Button band option 2
This option is using slip stitches
Using a 4mm hook
(working your way up around the collar and back down to the other side).
Row 1: ch1, sc all. Turn When working along the side of the back infill, 2 sc across each row
Row 2-7: (in blo) ch1, slst all. Turn
Fasten off.
Button band option 3
This option is front and back post dc
Using a 4mm hook
(working your way up around the collar and back down to the other side).
Row 1: ch1, dc all. Turn When working along the side of the back infill, 2 dc across each row
Row 2-4: ch1, *fpdc, bpdc* repeat to end. Turn
Fasten off after row 4.
Sleeves
For the sleeves I did 5 rows of dc, then 1 row of sc to add a bit of the colours used on the squares.
(The sleeves can be decreased gradually if you want I did this by doing a dc2tog every 3 rows)
To get a neater seam, after each row once you have turned, ch2, and make the first dc in the stitch to the left of ch2.
Join yarn under the armhole
Round 1: ch2, dc all the way round, (on the square joining seams I did a dc) slst to the first. Turn
Round 2: ch2, dc all, slst to the first.
Repeat round 2 until the sleeve measures 1.5” less than the size stated in the chart, then continue to the cuffs.
Cuffs option 1
If you want the cuffs tighter then you can slst 3 instead of 2 to decrease)
Using a 3.5mm hook
Row 1: ch9, sc in second ch from hook, sc 7, slst 2 stitches of the cuff. (8) Turn
Row 2: (in blo) ch1, sc all. (8) Turn
Row 3: (in blo) ch1, sc 8, slst 2 stitches of the cuff. (8) Turn
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you reach the other side and sew the seam.
Cuffs option 2
Using a 3.5mm hook
Row 1-4: ch1, *fpdc, bpdc* repeat to end. Fasten off.
I would love to see your makes feel free to share with #ladiespickandmixcardigan @babycrochetdesigns on Instagram, Pinterest and Facebook.
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